A very aromatic cultivar usually used for yan cha, Jinguanyin here makes for a very surprising black tea: an apple acidity first hits the palate, followed by an entire bouquet of flowers—peony, rose, hyacinth—before the emerging warmth of cinnamon and honey. Its thin body with just the requisite amount of malt and savouriness differs even from other aromatic black teas, more resembling greener oolongs in texture and tartness. Perhaps it's the tea to have when you're indecisive. Perhaps it's its own thing. In any case, it's strangely addictive and unequivocally delightful.