Baiyingshan 2021

A young but withdrawn sheng with many layers.

A withdrawn character could be a quality to cherish in a young sheng pu'er. This one from Bai Ying Mountain draws out a subtle body of aromas between traces of cream and the mouth-cleansing hui gan of camphor. Through a long succession of brews, it exposes innumerable layers in its golden liquor: fragrant pomelo, metallic minerals, ripe passionfruit and cooked collard greens topped with a savory dressing oil. And as if to assume a prodigious maturity, the brew is of a clear and palpable structure supported by tannins gliding pleasantly over the tongue and cheeks. To understand this complexity, perhaps it is worth contemplating its origins, where a unique harmony between the tea trees—old and wild, young and domesticated—characterizes the land. A noteworthy investigation and a scholarly pursuit, much like that suggested by the illustration on the wrapper.